Cheval: Jules meets the Wild Horses of the Camargue

An elderly woman in a wide-brimmed hat sits in a chair by the shore, looking at white horses grazing in the distance, while a man leans over, engaging with her.
Jules and Jean-Marc chatting this side of le marécage, or marsh. Opposite the white horses of the Camargue graze.

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A DAY IN A FRENCH LIFE by Kristi Espinasse

From her cozy nest here on the western edge of the Riviera, Jules asks about her grandchildren.

“Everyone is doing well!” I say, scooting in next to Ricci at the foot of Mom’s bed. “Payne and Reagan are in Seattle for a Seahawks game with Heidi. Max and Ana are in Rome for Max’s half marathon, and Jackie and Vincent have gone apple picking in Connecticut with Vin’s family.”

Mom smiles at the peregrinations of her family. Little does she know, she herself is about to leave her bed and hit the road.

For over a year now, Mom has been treated for an autoimmune condition. Weekly injections of a low-dose chemotherapy leave her exhausted. Knowing she is happiest in her room, surrounded by her comforts (including Ricci), I cautiously announce our travel plans—careful to dangle a giant four-hooved carrot.

“Mom, we are going to see the wild horses of the Camargue!”

“Oh…that’s wonderful. You two have a good time.”

“Mom, we are taking YOU with us.”

“Oh, I’m happy here,” Mom assures me.

Mother and daughter brace for a tug o’ war. It takes some sales talk and a few more “carrots” to convince her—Ricci could come with us, we wouldn’t travel too far, and Mom could bring her giant down comforter.

The morning of departure, I found Mom hidden under that heavy gray couette. My heart sank, sure she was going to stay put. And then suddenly, the covers flew back and Mom—fully dressed from head to toe and a little groggy from a sleepless night—asked, “Is it time for us to leave?”

I noticed that under the covers, she had her silver Converse high tops laced and ready to go.

“Yes!” I said, relieved. “I’m so proud of you, Mom.”

It was a lot to leave her comfort zone after years of nesting, but off we went—three adventurers and one little dog—on our two-day virée to the Camargue.

We divided the short trip in half, stopping in Martigues—“The Venice of Provence”—for lunch along the canal. At restaurant Le Miroir, Mom sat right beside a rainbow of boats, watching the locals and their dogs walk by while savoring une soupe au poisson. After, we strolled through the little town and back along the canals on our way to the car.

Mom snuggled down into the backseat, having made her bed there. I smiled: who needs a tricked-out van when Jules is content to camp in our small car? “We might be onto something!” I chuckled, already looking forward to our next road trip.

Next stop: a resort in the heart of the Camargue, just twenty-five minutes from Arles. Driving into the ranch, the name perplexed me until I finally looked it up: Les Bains Gardians—literally “The Cowboy Baths”! In the Camargue, les gardians are the cowboys of Provence — the men and women who herd the semi-wild white horses across the marshlands. And “les bains” means “the baths,” suggesting a spa, relaxation, or restorative place.

The resort is peppered with grass-roofed bungalows, or cabanes. We reserved two in a row along the salt marsh. Just past the reeds and the ducks, we had a view of the famous white horses. I hoped the equestrian scent would bring Mom back to her riding days, when, daily, she jumped her giant stallion, Navy Pistol.

What an athlete Mom was! It’s something she’s quick to remind me of when she struggles to walk and refuses to hold my arm.

“Mom, I know you were athletic…and I used to be an aerobics queen. But here we are now. We’ve got to work with what we’ve have.”

Back at the ranch, we’d only just arrived when Mom was ready to sleep, just as she had in the car all the way here. “OK, but we’re coming to get you for dinner.”

At nightfall, Jules came out to watch the sunset beyond the marsh but asked to stay behind for dinner—and didn’t even touch the food we brought her. 

That night I had insomnia. It finally hit me—even wild horses couldn’t drag Mom out of her bed. Tossing and turning with worry, I thought about all my aging loved ones. My heart trembles at the thought of time passing, so I hold these moments close.

The clock read 2:58 a.m. when I got up and went outside with Ricci. Standing beside the marsh, beneath the black night sky, I saw a shimmer on the water. Something prompted me to refocus. It was Mom’s voice, if only in my mind: Look up at the stars!

That’s when I discovered a sky full of sparkling diamonds! Out here in the Camargue flatlands the skies are so clear the stars came into focus like nowhere else. I wanted to hurry to Mom’s cabin and wake her up, as she used to wake me when she had something exciting to share—no matter the hour. And I should have, for just over the quaint bridge, steps from where I stood, she too was passing a sleepless night.

Gazing at les étoiles, Mom’s wisdom soared across my memory like shooting stars: Look up, take a new path, turn it over to God. I needed to turn this over to the Lord above, who is ever watching over my sweet Mom—and all of our loved ones.

With that peaceful assurance, I returned to the cabane and fell into a deep sleep. I dreamt we were already off on another adventure with Mom!

The next day Jean-Marc talked Mom into walking over to the breakfast buffet, at the main lodge, where Jules’s appetite had returned. Over scrambled eggs and croissants, I hinted that, next time, we’d return to ride those wild horses through the marsh, over to the sandy beach and along the Mediterranean Sea! 

As soon as we were done eating, we headed to the barn to pet the horses.  “This is the best vacation I have ever had!” Mom repeated. “It’s so calm and lovely out here—so elegant! And Jean-Marc is so peaceful.” It turns out we three travel well together.

I was busy taking photos, feeling very happy about things, when Mom suddenly disappeared.  We scanned the stables when a voice called out from above. Over at the horse arena, up two flights of steps, Mom stood waving her arms. “What a view from here!”

With a sigh of relief, I smiled—here indeed, she is here! And now we know Mom can rally when she has to, leaving her cozy nest back home for new adventures.

Mom, I’m so proud of you. Walking arm in arm with you through Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, to say a special prayer in an ancient cathedral in France, is a dream come true.

As Jean-Marc said, you walked more steps this weekend than all year long. Let’s keep putting one foot in front of the other. Who knows where these humble steps will take us next—perhaps even where the wild horses run.


Mom talks to the horses
🇫🇷 FRENCH VOCABULARY

le cheval = horse
la couette = comforter
une soupe au poisson = fish soup
une virée = outing, jaunt, little trip
Les Bains Gardians = The Cowboy Baths (literally “The Baths of the Gardians”)
les gardians = the cowboys of Provence
la cabane = cabin
les étoiles = stars

DAILY FRENCH & PHOTOS
If you enjoy this weekly journal, you may also like a daily update from France. On my WhatsApp channel, I share a word and photo tous les jours. Follow me here.

A group of horses stands near a wooden fence under trees, with a mix of colors including brown, gray, and white.
The gray colt and brown, caramel and white horses
Ricci loving her first vacation!
L’arène = the arena
Leaving the cathedral in Sainte-sMaries-de-La-Mer

REMERCIEMENTS
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37 thoughts on “Cheval: Jules meets the Wild Horses of the Camargue

  1. Oh, how beautiful for your maman to see the horses and get out of her very comfortable cocoon for a bit of adventure. You two are so thoughtful and loving to have done that for her. Merci and hugs all around. And you were there I think, during the shooting star week, but if not, there were pleanty of others to go around! xxxxxx

    1. Thanks for sharing your sweet family trip with Jules! The way you love, honor and care for your mom is so inspiring. And the way you continue to be inspired by her faith, too. Continued blessings on you all!

  2. Hi Kristi,
    What a lovely trip for you, JM and your mom. What beautiful memories to cherish!
    Blessings,
    Eileen

  3. Loved the story! Very happy your mom made the trip. Turning 80 soon and wondering how and when did I get here?!😄. This post Reminded me of Wendell’s and my trip to the Camargue. It is a beautiful place. Thank you for sharing.

  4. So very sweet. I wonder if Jules has any idea how much your loyal readers, Kristi, love to read about sweet times with her.

  5. I’m so happy for you that your trip went so well for your beautiful mom. I only wish I could have met her when we were living in Aix a couple of years ago. Bonne continuation!

  6. What a lovely story. I’m happy Jules & Ricci got to see the horses and the amazing scenery. Bisous à tous.

  7. Oh Kristi, I can so sense your heart in this post. Having just been in Arles and in the south for a month, having visited those delightful creatures and having walked those same streets with our aging loved ones, I felt just now as though I had indeed managed to meet up with you after all! I became weepy thinking about and missing my mamma…
    Take care and squeeze Jules from me, xox

  8. Kristi! I have missed your loving posts so much recently. What a delightful uplifting story today! The three travelers road trip made such a spectacular read. So happy to hear your voice again in a full post!

  9. So nice to see Jules up and about. I,
    too, have sarcoidosis. I’ve had 3 active bouts with “remissions” in between. It is debilitating. The treatment is also not a walk in the park. I wish for Jules to come out the other side of this and be able to embrace many more wonderful little jaunts!

  10. We love La Camargue. During our six years in Vaucluse, La Camargue was one of our favorite spots to take our friends who were bird-watchers. Spring and fall were great times for the migration. Mas St. Bertrand was always a great spot for lunch.

  11. So happy your mother had this outing! And it surely did her good! I’m sure she’ll be ready for another!

  12. What a beautiful story about two beautiful women. I have a daughter like you and I am so happy Jules went with you. I a bit younger but I see the day when I won’t want to leave my hoe but I will, wild horses WILL drag me!

  13. So touching, inspirational and hopeful. Thank you for sharing your adventure. Aging in ourselves and observing those we love age always makes me catch my breath. Wishing your mother more adventures and continued good health.

  14. Horses have amazing healing powers, and sometimes just being around them you can feel their healing energy. What happiness that you were all able to visit the Camargue together and to rejuvenate yourselves with nature and sunshine. This was a touching, warm and caring writing, and I thank you for sharing this with us. Wishing your mom more adventures.

  15. Dear Kristi! It seems like this grand adventure which you so lovingly treated Jules to, was a healing experience for all. I love the soft expression on the horses’ faces in the photo with your mom. I look forward to hearing about your next adventure! I’m touched by your thoughtfulness and understand your sense of worry. It’s with an open heart that we embrace the fragility of life and pour more love outward! Hugs and love sent to you and Jules!

  16. Sounds like a beautiful trip. Lucky Jules to have family so close. More transatlantic convergence… just working on a bus trip with a travel buddy. Nothing so lovely as Camargue, just a casino in Pennsylvania. But it’s a fun group… picture the movie Jaws shown outdoors at a beach just like Amity. Old folks in their beach chairs who can recite the dialog… 3 2 1 “You’re gonna need a bigger boat.” Hilarity. Did Jaws get international? Any sharks in the Med?

    1. Hi Karen, That sounds like a fun getaway! Re the movie Jaws, it is well-known in France as « Les Dents de La Mer ». We too have very small (harmless?) sharks here in the Med, but it is rare to see one. Much more common to come across a dolphin!

  17. Kristi, This story made me miss my mom so much. She loved a good weekend trip to somewhere new. Both my mom and her mother used that phrase “Turn it over to God.” It’s something that has gotten me through more than one otherwise sleepless night. Thank you for sharing this story and the photos. Hold your mom close.

  18. bonjour, Kristi & family: what a treat to be able to take your seemingly-at-first unwilling Jules to see the horses. But, she surprised you & continues to surprise you! How very fortunate you all are to not only have each other in your lives; but, to enjoy each other!!! Thank you so much for sharing all your thoughts & stories. Have a beautiful day! Amicalmente, Ann

  19. Hi, Kristi! I love the Camargue too. The swans fascinate me along with the white horses. I am still having trouble getting your writings but am persevering in finding them after I realize that I have missed one or two. Today the site won’t let me send a donation, so I will try later.

    1. Hello Mike,
      Thank you for persevering. Many readers are not receiving the update (including my parents). It’s so frustrating. I don’t want to have to go back to my old listserver, now that I’m settled here. I will keep these reports in mind and hopefully work out a solution.

    2. Same here Mike. Even tho I am subscribed (platform confirms it) I don’t get notices of new posts. I have to go to the site, and see that I’ve missed 2-3 posts… and catch up. Technology can be a big PITA.

  20. 👏 to Jules and to you. It is an honor and blessing to read this beautiful story. The three Maries were there watching over you, filling you all with incredible love. Thank you for sharing this uplifting example to the world.

  21. Your story touched my heart. I am an elderly mom suffering from cancer. I have 2 beautiful daughters who have been a blessing to me. I could hear their voices in your words. Merci Mille fois. ❤️

    1. Thank you, Pat. Your message touches me! May the love and care of your lovely daughters, your friends and family, lift you up at this time, and may you continue to heal completely. Sending love and prayers. ❤️

  22. Somehow, your blog was put in my spam bin. I am just now reading your words and am delighted at this adventure for all of you. How reviving to take your mother out and breathe fresher air, be near the horses and relive some pleasant memories. I loved the stars at night and being able to reflect on our limits and the goodness and providence of God. I truly hope you are able to take another mini vacation- they are refreshing, restorative and healing. What a wonderful reflection.

  23. This edition teared me up. My 84 year-old mother (with health issues) recently told me how talking to her horse when she was in the 7th grade helped her get through the loss of her mother. Merci beaucoup!

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