Cabane de berger (the shepherd's wooden hut) photo by the Neurdein brothers. Here we have a slumbering sheepherder with his border collie and german shepherd (is it?) minding the troup. (When Mom sees this photo, she'll ditch her latest treehouse scheme… in favor of this fort-on-wheels with a nifty sliding door! Mom has had a hard time deciding where to anchor, here on the olive farm. This just may be the answer!)
un berger (une bergère)
: a shepherd, or shepherdess
la bergerie = sheep pen, sheepfold
Audio File: listen to Jean-Marc read the following sentence, in French: Download MP3 or Wav file
Le berger amène ses moutons dans la plaine. Cela s'appelle la transhumance.
The shepherd brings his sheep to the flatland. This is called "la transhumance".
A DAY IN A FRENCH LIFE… by Kristin Espinasse
A Modern Day Nomad
Returning home from the doctor's on Monday, we ran into a roadblock along our driveway. Dozens of sheep, great and small, were feasting on the grass beside the olive trees!
They're here! Hurry, get their picture! I said to Jean-Marc, who got out of our car to check the mail. Hurry! Before they wander off!
Having collected the courrier, Jean-Marc made his way up the crowded and bleating path. There were sheep everywhere: in the road, in the meadow, and in the trees (or nearly!). I watched, amazed to see the peaceful-looking animals rip off and devour the thorny stems of the bushes, enjoying them like chewy licorice sticks.
Driving cautiously in my husband's wake, I rolled down the window to get a better look at the troupeaux, which included several nursing lambs—agneaux—and even a few black sheep. I smiled thinking of their proverbial brothers and sisters (and a few of my own family members…).
As Jean-Marc advanced, a shepherd appeared on the restanque just above. The two men began a lazy conversation. I struggled to get within earshot, but it wasn't until the shepherd whistled—and a Border collie materialized—that the path instantly cleared of its four-legged traffic and I was able to pull my car over to the side of the road.
Jean-Marc, interested in some free soil amendment for his soon-to-be planted vines, was informing the berger about which pastures belong to us, and which were the neighbors'. As the men pointed and stretched their arms, measuring the expanse of the pâturage, I stole a closer look at the sheepherder.
He appeared to be in his early thirties, an unusual age for sheepherders, who, once upon a time, were either the very young or the very old (deemed useless to the family for anything but watching sheep!).
History had changed since the down-and-out times of early shepherding; it wasn't likely that this modern day berger was a burden to his family. Shepherds these days earn a living and, from all appearances, made enough to afford a smartphone!
Apart from the portable phone, I noticed the shepherd's tattered wooden cane, une houlette. It had the famous hook at the end, useful for freeing the hoof of a trapped sheep, one that has fallen from the path.
The shepherd tucked his canne under his arm, pausing to roll a cigarette as he listened to Jean-Marc. He was no ordinary shepherd, wearing a newsboy cap and a punk haircut. His short locks were punctuated by a single strand of braided hair that signaled nonconformist. Come to think of it, weren't punk rockers noncomformists who aspired to be nomads? This shepherd was the real deal, a living, breathing wanderer.
"Tomorrow, I'll park on the other side of the field," the berger informed Jean-Marc, pointing to his beat-up shepherd wagon. It was one of those classic Estafettes, the kind Jean-Marc's grandmother drove during WWII, as she peddled house linens to the Pieds-Noirs in Morocco.
"Ça marche," Jean-Marc waved goodbye to the sheepherder, before getting back into our car.
I still hadn't had a word with the shepherd, though I was itching to know him. What a fascinating story he must have to share. But I had a feeling he was a private type—he reminded me so much of my rebel sister-in-law. And though I had so many questions, (just as I had for her), I didn't want to put him out and, admittedly, I didn't want to say something stupid or square to someone so authentic.
But then, wasn't I a little authentic too? How many times had I let my perceived squareness keep me from befriending the nonconformists? But I wasn't so straight as that. Gone were the perfectly made-up face and fluffy hair. With a bandaged nose* and, wearing a sweater with holes (my dear mom's, for comfort), I might pass for a bohemian, like him.
Before putting the car into gear, I stuck my tattered nose out the window. "Nice dog!" I offered, admiring the hardworking Border collie, and noble chien de berger. "Is she good at what she does?"
A smile now stretched across the nomad's face, revealing a row of teeth as wandering as his sheep.
"Elle est la meilleure!" the berger replied, his enthusiasm as endearing as his smile. "If one of these moutons ended up on that far off colline (with this, he stretched forth his cane, waving it for effect), Mieszka (mee-esh-ka) would be there in a flash, to steer her home."
It didn't take much, after all, to connect with the mysterious nomad who was so different from this heart-on-sleeves homebody. I had thought I had nothing to say, and yet, venturing the question, I was rewarded by the friendly, universal connection.
To comment on this story, click here. Keep the conversation going by sharing your own stories about connecting with people so seemingly different than yourself. And what about Border collies and the intelligence of dogs? Notice any other themes in today's essay? Thanks for sharing your thoughts, in the comments box.
*bandaged nose: the stiches from the biopsy were taken out on Monday. Good news: this time the results came back benign, and not bcc!
References:
Read about Jean-Marc's grandmother in the story "bouder" (to pout). It was Jean-Marc's grandmother who gave me some of the best mariage advice, namely ne jamais bouder! Click here for that story and the scene of the grandmother peddling linens from a military supply vehicle….
FRENCH VOCABULARY
le courrier = mail
le troupeau = herd
un agneau =lamb
le mouton = sheep (some fun & colorful "mouton" expressions, such as "revenons à nos moutons, here)
la restanque = a kind of terrace held by a wall of stacked rocks
le pâturage = field of grasses from which animals graze
la canne = cane
le pied-noir = French citizen who lived in Algeria before independence. The term included citizens, like my mother-in-law and her family, living in other North African countries, such as Morocco, during or after wartime.
ça marche = that'll work
le chien de berger = sheepdog, such as a Border collie
elle est la meilleure = she's the best
la colline = hill
Gus was so suprised and touched by the messages you left him for his 88th birthday. Gus writes (in typical Gus "all caps"):
IF I REALLY TRIED, I COULD COME UP WITH A FLOWERY PHRASE TO TELL YOU ABOUT MY FEELINGS FOR THE BIRTHDAY AFFAIR. THE BEST ONE IS A VERY SINCERE "THANKS"..
Gus is pictured, above, with daughter Mary, who is, Gus tells us, "MY ONE FLOWER AMONG FIVE SONS".
Marguerites in the lavender town of Sault. Has a friend forwarded you this post? Sign up, here, to receive French Word-A-Day in your in-box.
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Great photo – as soon as I saw it, I gave up my retirement dream of selling the house and buying a trailer (which we would use to visit our kids … sending postcards of course first to tell them when we were arriving). Same concept, though at a slower pace!
Great photo – as soon as I saw it, I gave up my retirement dream of selling the house and buying a trailer (which we would use to visit our kids … sending postcards of course first to tell them when we were arriving). Same concept, though at a slower pace!
Kristin
I loved this story of the authentic young sheep herder choosing such free and fresh work out of doors. Thank you for sharing this great encounter. When i lived in Eagle Vail, Colorado in the 1980s, a sheep herder used to herd his sheep right down the highway when he moved them to a different pasture – it was a narrow valley and he had no other choice.
It was a special moment for me to see this then and to share in your day also.
Kristin
I loved this story of the authentic young sheep herder choosing such free and fresh work out of doors. Thank you for sharing this great encounter. When i lived in Eagle Vail, Colorado in the 1980s, a sheep herder used to herd his sheep right down the highway when he moved them to a different pasture – it was a narrow valley and he had no other choice.
It was a special moment for me to see this then and to share in your day also.
So wonderful to hear the results of your biopsy, dear, dear Kristen.
I loved todays post, partly because it reminded me of a similar sighting while driving near Lourmarin. A man, his dog and his work – an enticing picture.
So wonderful to hear the results of your biopsy, dear, dear Kristen.
I loved todays post, partly because it reminded me of a similar sighting while driving near Lourmarin. A man, his dog and his work – an enticing picture.
Beautiful photo, and great news about your nose.
Thank you!
Beautiful photo, and great news about your nose.
Thank you!
Beautiful photo of the sheep! Who needs a lawnmower if this guy comes by once a week? lol
Beautiful photo of the sheep! Who needs a lawnmower if this guy comes by once a week? lol
Bonjour du Texas. Félicitations pour votre résultat de la biopsie, a poursuivi meilleurs voeux!
I wanted to suggest a different breed ID for the shepherd dog in your ‘Cabane’ picture from the famous Maison Neurdein photo studio. Since the picture location is designated ‘en Beauce’, I believe, it shows a Beauceron, also called Berger de Beauce or Bas Rouge, Red Stocking. This old working breed from northern France was used as a guard and herding companion, quite fierce and brave, even fighting wolves to protect his sheep. Before the modern standard was set, which allows only either ‘Black and Tan’ (all black dogs with red markings similar to a Doberman, including their hallmark red feet) or ‘Harlequin’ (tan and grey brindled), many Beauceron were more tawny overall, just as the dog in the pictures appears to be. The Beauceron are closely related to the other northern French shepherd breed, the Briard. The facial markings and profile of the dog pictured are identical to it’s modern cousins, only the ears are no longer cropped. I wish, I could attach a picture of our boy Vandal, who heils from Rouen and listens to the traditional French commands. He sends greetings to Mama Braise and her intrepid son Smokey!
Bonjour du Texas. Félicitations pour votre résultat de la biopsie, a poursuivi meilleurs voeux!
I wanted to suggest a different breed ID for the shepherd dog in your ‘Cabane’ picture from the famous Maison Neurdein photo studio. Since the picture location is designated ‘en Beauce’, I believe, it shows a Beauceron, also called Berger de Beauce or Bas Rouge, Red Stocking. This old working breed from northern France was used as a guard and herding companion, quite fierce and brave, even fighting wolves to protect his sheep. Before the modern standard was set, which allows only either ‘Black and Tan’ (all black dogs with red markings similar to a Doberman, including their hallmark red feet) or ‘Harlequin’ (tan and grey brindled), many Beauceron were more tawny overall, just as the dog in the pictures appears to be. The Beauceron are closely related to the other northern French shepherd breed, the Briard. The facial markings and profile of the dog pictured are identical to it’s modern cousins, only the ears are no longer cropped. I wish, I could attach a picture of our boy Vandal, who heils from Rouen and listens to the traditional French commands. He sends greetings to Mama Braise and her intrepid son Smokey!
Thank you for these educational! Herm, I love the southwest history you share with us (makes me so nostalgic for AZ!), and Claudia — loved learning about the Beauceron and the synonyms, too!
Michele, yes–I used a lomo filter (free from Picasa) on Jean-Marcs photo. It was such a dreamy image, and the lomo filter is extra dreamy.
Julie, one can always use a sunblock reminder. I hope your latest appt went well.
Debbie, so good to hear the all clear news.
Jim, your grammar looks good to me!
Bill, love your words on communicating with one another. So eloquent! So true!
Eileen and Pat, thanks for taking the time to read those stories, about JMs grandmother and his sister.
Karene, thanks for asking about Mom. She is painting and enjoying her husbands cooking. Shes been a little shy to comment (what? Jules? shy? — yes, sometimes!). I know she will be back with us soon. Meantime, you (readers here) are her favorite telephone topic. She is so touched by the extended family here.
Kathy, there is a like button — thanks for asking about it. You need to click over to the blog, then scroll to the end of the post to find it. Thanks for hitting like, as it helps to share the story with others.
John, follow that dream and the slow pace, too!
Marcia, haha — I hope he will be back soon to cut the lawn again!
Thank you for these educational! Herm, I love the southwest history you share with us (makes me so nostalgic for AZ!), and Claudia — loved learning about the Beauceron and the synonyms, too!
Michele, yes–I used a lomo filter (free from Picasa) on Jean-Marcs photo. It was such a dreamy image, and the lomo filter is extra dreamy.
Julie, one can always use a sunblock reminder. I hope your latest appt went well.
Debbie, so good to hear the all clear news.
Jim, your grammar looks good to me!
Bill, love your words on communicating with one another. So eloquent! So true!
Eileen and Pat, thanks for taking the time to read those stories, about JMs grandmother and his sister.
Karene, thanks for asking about Mom. She is painting and enjoying her husbands cooking. Shes been a little shy to comment (what? Jules? shy? — yes, sometimes!). I know she will be back with us soon. Meantime, you (readers here) are her favorite telephone topic. She is so touched by the extended family here.
Kathy, there is a like button — thanks for asking about it. You need to click over to the blog, then scroll to the end of the post to find it. Thanks for hitting like, as it helps to share the story with others.
John, follow that dream and the slow pace, too!
Marcia, haha — I hope he will be back soon to cut the lawn again!
As a fellow cancer survivor, I fully comprehend the terror of awaiting test results. Congrats and a high five to you! Awesome sheep photo!
As a fellow cancer survivor, I fully comprehend the terror of awaiting test results. Congrats and a high five to you! Awesome sheep photo!
Lovely lovely story, Kristin. i, too, was struck by how much like a painting the photo is. Up in the corner, the sky and trees look like a tender watercolor. beautiful.
And what a beautiful reminder the story was–what appears to be a roadblock is almost always an opportunity. delicious.
Lovely lovely story, Kristin. i, too, was struck by how much like a painting the photo is. Up in the corner, the sky and trees look like a tender watercolor. beautiful.
And what a beautiful reminder the story was–what appears to be a roadblock is almost always an opportunity. delicious.
Chere Kristin
So happy for you that you biopsy came back negative.
Now, the old French teacher will remind you that words ending in age are usually masucline as in le paturage. I know what a nuisance these gender issues can be.
I continue to love y our every day stories that are so full of life.
Janine Cortell
Chere Kristin
So happy for you that you biopsy came back negative.
Now, the old French teacher will remind you that words ending in age are usually masucline as in le paturage. I know what a nuisance these gender issues can be.
I continue to love y our every day stories that are so full of life.
Janine Cortell
Thanks, Janine. So helpful. Off to fix it. (And feeling smug, on learning that age is a masculine thing–in French at least! 🙂
Thanks, Janine. So helpful. Off to fix it. (And feeling smug, on learning that age is a masculine thing–in French at least! 🙂
Nothing beats a picture of animals doing their age old routine. Loved the sheep and the dogs. Remember seeing an excerpt on tv about Queen Elizabeth and her dog whom she could direct from a great distance with her whistle. An extraordinary gift. Your grandmother-in-law’s advice was the best/ Pouting is no way to live.
Nothing beats a picture of animals doing their age old routine. Loved the sheep and the dogs. Remember seeing an excerpt on tv about Queen Elizabeth and her dog whom she could direct from a great distance with her whistle. An extraordinary gift. Your grandmother-in-law’s advice was the best/ Pouting is no way to live.
Chere Kristin,
Each and every time I read French Word-a-Day, my life is enriched. I rarely comment even though you give me plenty of food for thought. Today is an exception. Your berger has a dog with the Polish name of Mieszka? How can this be?
Chere Kristin,
Each and every time I read French Word-a-Day, my life is enriched. I rarely comment even though you give me plenty of food for thought. Today is an exception. Your berger has a dog with the Polish name of Mieszka? How can this be?
I love Jean-Marc’s picture of the all the sheep! I also love the image of a punk, cellphone toting berger!! Have you read the Alechemist, Kristin? Great story that begins with a shepherd in Spain.
I love Jean-Marc’s picture of the all the sheep! I also love the image of a punk, cellphone toting berger!! Have you read the Alechemist, Kristin? Great story that begins with a shepherd in Spain.
Well, Kristin, the nose knows. Good news.
On my recent trip to your adopted country, I found the subject of dogs a welcome entree into conversation. We missed our little bichon and stopped anyone on the street with a small white dog to let them know. It was a welcome diversion for us.
Chris
Well, Kristin, the nose knows. Good news.
On my recent trip to your adopted country, I found the subject of dogs a welcome entree into conversation. We missed our little bichon and stopped anyone on the street with a small white dog to let them know. It was a welcome diversion for us.
Chris
Our dear Kristi,
Firstly–most importantly–we rejoice at the wonderful news that there is no cancer!
Thank dear God for hearing our prayers and answering them!!
The story today (and the beautiful photos!)
wrapped themselves around my heart and filled me with smiles.
You are so gifted in making us feel part of this truly pastoral adventure.I was especially inspired by the way you found a (shared!)common denominator with the shepard–love of his dog! And then to draw him into a conversation which otherwise might never have happened. You have such a touch for making people feel special. (Starting with all of us at FWAD!!)
THANK YOU!!
Love, Natalia XO
Our dear Kristi,
Firstly–most importantly–we rejoice at the wonderful news that there is no cancer!
Thank dear God for hearing our prayers and answering them!!
The story today (and the beautiful photos!)
wrapped themselves around my heart and filled me with smiles.
You are so gifted in making us feel part of this truly pastoral adventure.I was especially inspired by the way you found a (shared!)common denominator with the shepard–love of his dog! And then to draw him into a conversation which otherwise might never have happened. You have such a touch for making people feel special. (Starting with all of us at FWAD!!)
THANK YOU!!
Love, Natalia XO
Wow. Awesome news about the nose 🙂 Had to add a nose to my usual smiley. Only started reading your blog a few months ago. Thoroughly enjoying it.
Wow. Awesome news about the nose 🙂 Had to add a nose to my usual smiley. Only started reading your blog a few months ago. Thoroughly enjoying it.
Loved the photo and story. Since you know where the “berger” will be in the next few days and since you have established a connection or rapport with him I think you should go talk with him (not to him). Take a walk with the sheep. Ask if you can take some photos of the sheep. Explain what you do. If you don’t do it you will never know the story and friendship that might develop. Your mother would agree and if she were there she would come with you for certain. I think the other dog in the first photo may be a Malinois.
Loved the photo and story. Since you know where the “berger” will be in the next few days and since you have established a connection or rapport with him I think you should go talk with him (not to him). Take a walk with the sheep. Ask if you can take some photos of the sheep. Explain what you do. If you don’t do it you will never know the story and friendship that might develop. Your mother would agree and if she were there she would come with you for certain. I think the other dog in the first photo may be a Malinois.
I love the photo of the sheep by the olive tree! Good story too…Thanks
I love the photo of the sheep by the olive tree! Good story too…Thanks
This photo took my breath away! I’m in the midst of planning my first ever trip to France, and of course, I want to find these moutons!! I grew up raising sheep and at times miss them dreadfully. Thanks for a great story, too. I find that I am more prone to interact with interesting strangers when I’m travelling, but lately am starting to do more of this around home. For instance, I admired the beautiful winter local organic produce from Maine (I’m in Massachusetts) at the natural foods store and had a wonderful conversation with the guy who orders it and arranges the display every morning!! Now when we see each other we are friends in a way and can interact again.
This photo took my breath away! I’m in the midst of planning my first ever trip to France, and of course, I want to find these moutons!! I grew up raising sheep and at times miss them dreadfully. Thanks for a great story, too. I find that I am more prone to interact with interesting strangers when I’m travelling, but lately am starting to do more of this around home. For instance, I admired the beautiful winter local organic produce from Maine (I’m in Massachusetts) at the natural foods store and had a wonderful conversation with the guy who orders it and arranges the display every morning!! Now when we see each other we are friends in a way and can interact again.
Oops, forgot to say that I’d love to hear more about the grandmother and her time in Morocco. Travelled there two years ago. A fascinating place! Where was she exactly?
Oops, forgot to say that I’d love to hear more about the grandmother and her time in Morocco. Travelled there two years ago. A fascinating place! Where was she exactly?
I just remembered something from my past, and therefore all the more reason to seek out the berger again. In my twenties there were two sheepherders who would bring their sheep down from the Sierra-Nevada mountains in the winter time to graze for free on government land near here. There were several acres of flat land right of the two lane road that I often traveled called Sycamore Flats. One day I stopped to take some photos of the sheep and climbed over the fence and ventured in. As I was taking some photos I realised that one of the bergers was in just outside his trailer (similar to the one in the photo). He came over to where I was and we started talking. He spoke some English and French. He was Basque. Your description of the one there reminded me of him. So very pleasant. He showed me one ewe that was ready to birth and another whose lamb had died. There was another lamb who had lost it’s mother and he showed me how they put the skin of of the deceased lamb over the orphan at first so the mother can get the combined smell and would feed it. I went back the following year and he was there again. Unfortunately they no longer bring them down,but thank you for bringing up such a memorable moment in my life. It brings a smile to my face right now. So tomorrow, go take some photos of those sheep. Thank you again.
I just remembered something from my past, and therefore all the more reason to seek out the berger again. In my twenties there were two sheepherders who would bring their sheep down from the Sierra-Nevada mountains in the winter time to graze for free on government land near here. There were several acres of flat land right of the two lane road that I often traveled called Sycamore Flats. One day I stopped to take some photos of the sheep and climbed over the fence and ventured in. As I was taking some photos I realised that one of the bergers was in just outside his trailer (similar to the one in the photo). He came over to where I was and we started talking. He spoke some English and French. He was Basque. Your description of the one there reminded me of him. So very pleasant. He showed me one ewe that was ready to birth and another whose lamb had died. There was another lamb who had lost it’s mother and he showed me how they put the skin of of the deceased lamb over the orphan at first so the mother can get the combined smell and would feed it. I went back the following year and he was there again. Unfortunately they no longer bring them down,but thank you for bringing up such a memorable moment in my life. It brings a smile to my face right now. So tomorrow, go take some photos of those sheep. Thank you again.
Oh Kristi Darling – I just love every little word in your post today! I think I will put this one in the ‘classic’ file. And as I always tell you – you could create a whole chapter out of this moment in time. I hope you will take your new friend a nice hot meal tomorrow and see to whatever needs he may have, oh how I wish I was there to spoil him and sit around a campfire and take movies of the entire experience.
I am just over the moon with this story. Love the photo – more please more….I will never have enough photo’s of sheep.
XOXO
MOM
Oh Kristi Darling – I just love every little word in your post today! I think I will put this one in the ‘classic’ file. And as I always tell you – you could create a whole chapter out of this moment in time. I hope you will take your new friend a nice hot meal tomorrow and see to whatever needs he may have, oh how I wish I was there to spoil him and sit around a campfire and take movies of the entire experience.
I am just over the moon with this story. Love the photo – more please more….I will never have enough photo’s of sheep.
XOXO
MOM
Do farmers give the shepherds permission to use their fields? I guess that must be how it works. Gives the sheep grass to eat and fertilizes the fields for the farmers.
Nice post, and fascinating old photo. I wonder where shepherds sleep nowadays.
Do farmers give the shepherds permission to use their fields? I guess that must be how it works. Gives the sheep grass to eat and fertilizes the fields for the farmers.
Nice post, and fascinating old photo. I wonder where shepherds sleep nowadays.
Love that picture by Jean-Marc & such a fun story to go with it.
Love that picture by Jean-Marc & such a fun story to go with it.