"Empty Niche Syndrome." Photo taken in Caromb.
What To Do in Aix-En-Provence?
I received the following letter from a reader and hope you can help by submitting tips on what to do and see in Aix!
Kristin,
If you have a moment, please… I am thinking about planning a trip to France in late August of this year and would really like to visit Aix-en-Provence as part of that trip, perhaps even stay there as my 'home base' while in France. I'm hoping to stay for 8-10 days, and would like to visit Paris for a day and see some of the countryside.
I think it would be fun to stay in Aix as it will be fun to see some of the things you've spoken about before and have a better mental picture when reading your thrice-weekly column…
I'm sure you probably get this question a lot, but is there any way you can give me some helpful tips on visiting Aix-en-Provence?
Thanks so much!
LeNora
.
Que Faire à Aix-en-Provence? / What to do in Aix-en-Provence?
Friends, please share your Aix-en-Provence tip and suggestions here. Tell us which restaurants, bistros, and cafés to visit. What about B&B's or hotels? Is there a room to rent in the area? What about activities and must-sees? What are some neighboring villages that are worth a visit? Share your tips and ideas here!
What to do in the Loire Valley? Que Faire dans la Vallée de la Loire?
What to do in Paris? Que Faire à Paris?
Where to Rent a car in France? Readers share their best finds.
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I was in Aix for 6 weeks one summer (Law School in France!)and loved the area. Its been 20 years since I was there though so can’t really recommend any places of business. I recall gorgeous fountains all around town and eating lots of ice cream! I do recommend side trips to Arles (for the Van Gogh spin) and Nimes for the Roman ruins!
Aix is SO fun, especially on a Saturday morning when the FULL market – food, home goods, antiques, etc. – is going on in the old part of the city. My friends and I traveled there on our way to Bordeaux (from Italy, after a semester-long study abroad program in Cortona) and it was a lovely stop. The old town was my favorite and really the only part we saw. We enjoyed walking the Cours Mirabeau and the cafes are great to pop into for a nighttime drink. The food market has great food – we particularly liked the roast chicken and vegetables stand. There’s a good chocolate shop on Rue Rifle-Rafle called Puyricard nearby (they have a couple shops in Paris too). We stayed at Hotel Artea, which was very nice with big fluffy beds and very close to the huge round-about on Cours Mirabeau. Enjoy your stay!
LeNora,
My mother (85), my sister, and I visited Provence for the first time September 2009. For 10 years, we have have always rented an apartment or a house for our annual vacation. We only stay in hotels (if necessary) for the day we arrive and/or depart. Of course, each group is different but we find this to be the only way to go. We love to cook so we can go to the markets and buy local goods for dinner. Markets are wonderful, colorful places good for shopping, people watching, and photography.
Based on my preferences, this is my recommendation. You must have a car in Provence. I think you said you will be there in August so expect crowds. My preference would be to stay in a small village. I would make day trips to the cities then return home to the quiet of the village to a place that by day two you will refer to as “home.” It is a great way to relax after a long day out. Be prepared for the hunt for a parking place on market days unless you arrive very early. I spent one hour finding a spot in St. Remy and that was in the semi-off season.
Don’t try to do too much or you will miss it all. Our pattern is to make a list of places that we like based on pictures and write ups in travel guides and web sites. Book a place NOW and get what you want. We stay in Sablet (near Kristin). We rented Maison Pelerins and loved it. (http://www.sablethome.com/).
Back to list making. You will quickly learn you cannot do everything on your list especially if you find something interesting on your journey and take a diversion. That is ok. We have learned to just move it to the “next time” list.
Here is the beauty of the “next time” strategy. Our list quickly filled up so I just booked a house near Vaison la Romaine for our trip in September 2010! We can’t wait to return and make new discoveries. AND, we will start a new list.
Margaret
I agree with the person who suggested staying in Avignon. It is much easier to get to many places of interest. Yes, it is
big but when you stay within the walls in the old town where most hotels are located,
there is a special feeling. The transportation links from Avignon are impressive. there are 2 train stations…a regular one with a train to L’Isle sur Sorgue and the TGV station..only 2 1/2 hrs. to Paris! There is a bus station as well…all of these are outside the walls.
AVOID August at all costs……tourists everywhere including the French who all go south pour les vacances. Also it can be very hot. September is better. We drove to the top of Mt. Ventoux which was a highlight but only go on a clear day.VIsit Arles with all its Van Gogh connections and the Roman ruins. Nearby is Les Baux and St-Remy (more Van Gogh and Roman ruins!) The market in St-Remy on Wednesday is great. We also went to the markets in Carpentras and L’Isle-sur-Sorgue. I could go on forever. I think Aix is too far out of the tourist loop, although a lovely city. By the way, there is a lovely company called UNTOURS who have a package of an apt. and a car for a very reasonable price. Most apts.are near
L’Isle-sur-Sorgue. Highly reommended.
Bon Voyage!
In addition to all the wonderful places people have suggested, I would recommend the Vasarely Museum. It’s not as “loved” as some of the others, but his infulence on the art world is fascinating. Also, there are a lot of experimental exhibits, videos, etc., that are excellent!
It’s also Marcel Pagnol country, so there’s that aspect as well.
I was staying in Marseille and also enjoyed trips to Nice, Paris, Cassis, Montpelier, Arcachon, St. Maxim, and Perpignan while I was traveling. It’s hard to go wrong in France!
Have fun!
Mindy
Cezanne’s studio is a must-see.
You will love Aix, and it might be better to just discover it and not plan too much. Sit in a cafe, visit the market.
Just scrolled through the comments and didn’t notice anything about Paris…..I wouldn’t recommend a day trip to Paris from Aix, as most of it would be spent in transit. Please keep those Aix tips coming – especially for places to stay in villages or small towns. We’re hoping to visit the area in May.
In case anyone is looking farther north in Provence, I definitely recommend the Hotel Les Pins in Bedoin. The town is touristy in summer, but mostly Dutch rather than Americans. Mary
Kristin,
In 2005 I visited Aix in April to see my niece, who was studying at University there for the Spring semester. Fortunately, le mistral was over. One of the things that greatly impressed me was the Carousel at the top of the Cours Mirabeau. It is enchantingly different from our “merry-go-rounds”. The city’s library is on a back street, not far from the University, and it, too, is enchantingly different!
I am a flower gardener. I realize that Flower Markets are a dime a dozen, all over France, but they are woefully rare here in the US – and never with such a profusion of ranunculi, mimosas, and anemones! Again, enchantment!
As a daytrip, I would highly recommend Bandol – the drive down from Aix, partly on la corniche, was fun, but probably not for the fainthearted. I simply imagined myself as Grace Kelly, with the top down. We stopped for a mid-morning break at a boutique hotel across from the harbor. My American niece from Barrington, IL had become quite the jeune fille!
LeNora
I think everyone about covered the essentials to do over 10 days in the area. I read several times that there is no parking in Aix, which is incorrect. There is plenty of parking underground all convenient when visiting the city. Also, there is a fresh food market every day of the week in the center of Aix and the vintage market happens Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays. The market closes down by 1 pm. I’m a guide and live just outside of Aix. If I can help – feel free to email me.
Kristin,
We have spent two Septembers in a home exchange with a family outside of Gordes, and have visited and enjoyed practically all the places recommended by the other posts. However, I can not imagine why Aubagne has not been mentioned. It is the heart and center of Santon makers. There is a wonderful museum there and many ateliers of the most famous makers. For Santons it surpasses, Marsailles, Avignon, Aix, etc. I recommend it highly in addition to all the other wonderful sites in the Luberon and Province.
Viva la France!!
I love Aix of course but just wanted to tell you about the Moulin de Saint-Martin, a little chambres d’hôte in Crécy-la-Chapelle where we have been spending five days while attending the Maison&Objets Salon in Paris. It’s on a small island, beautifully restored and furnished. Corot had a house nearby and started a painting tradition in the area, attacting everyone from van Gogh to the Fauvists. The village is a gem and the old wash houses still line the canals. 75 euros for two, including breakfast. Dinner also available on request but a little pricey at 28 euros, not including wine and aperitifs. You can Google it for photos and more informtion.
We spent 3 great weeks in Provence in June 2007.Weather was perfect,hot but bearable and tourists not overwhelming.We rented a lovely holiday home about 10 mins by car or taxi from the centre of Aix,from vrbo.com.It came with its own pool and jacuzzi so we could cool down anytime!The village was Bouc Bel Air,a lovely place in itself to visit. I would recommend,Cassis,the Camargue,Arles,Avignon.We rented a car and complete with Sat.Nav. found our way to the hilltop villages of Bonnieux and Menerbes! Provence is magical,May for the poppy flowers in bloom and July for the lavender fields!
Ahhhhh…memories. I spent 5 weeks there in the summer ,studying and then a final week in Paris. I’ve seen a lot of good suggestions. Our school planned some great side trips. Some of my favorites were; Pont du Gaurd (very good Roman aquaduct) where we walked across the top and had a picnic at the base, Senaque was great, we went to a working monastery that grew fields of lavender,and also to Vence where we visited a chapel desined by Matisse (the school may have made speacial arrangements with the nuns for us to visit so you might check on that but it was beautiful).
Go to vrbo.com book a hilltop cottage( a misnomer if ever I heard one) under Aix en Provence but staying in Bouc bel Air a few minutes drive outside Aix and you will have a stupendous holiday! Cassis,Avignon,Arles,Beaux de Provence,Bonnieux,Lacoste,Menerbes all within easy reach, but your time spent in the actual village of Beaux will be your lasting memory!A private pool, jacuzzi and fab holiday home, whats not to like????
Paris & Provence
Paris is our favorite city, yes it even beats out New York, and Provence is an area we hold special in our hearts – two places we return to as often as we can. The beauty of each is breathtaking and the light is indescribable. The only other place we’v…
France is by far one of the best places on earth to have vacation with. The scenic spots and all the great food. The people are also friendly and romantic. There are a lot of things that we can enjoy in France. Hoping your visit was a lot of fun. More power.
Lots of suggestions for places to eat, drink, stay, visit and even get a massage in Aix and other parts of the region in http://www.provencefoodandwine.com
We adored Aix and have visited several times over the last few years. Last year we stayed with friends in nearby Cabries and spent a morning working the market in Aix. There is a GREAT pizza place off Cours Mirabeau, I think–just ‘take out’ but delish, called Capri Pizza. It’s really a just a little store front. We sat on the curb to eat our pizza, but it was Wonderful! From there we took the train to Marseilles which was a very short hop and a wonderful place to visit…esp. if you are a fan of Marcel Pagnol books or films!(or a fan of CVheif Grape, who I understand is also Marseillese(-:
If I remember right Aix has the Roman mud spa. My body was backed in mud, steamed, massaged, etc. It was great. I would have liked to have had the mud facial too! Enjoy the spa!
Ok fine Girls that was nice but what if you are not eighty five and looking for oil for the squeaky zimmer frame. how about fun things to do with kids?
I’m glad someone mentioned the Vasarely Museum. I really loved the geometry and color of his art. Here’ s the link: http://www.fondationvasarely.fr/informations.php
Just spent 2 months there and it is the most wonderful place. Check out the local food markets that are held each day and stock up on some delicious goodies. Attend a church service (even if you aren’t super religious or non-french speaking), the music is delightful and the choir sounds just beautiful. I suggest St Jean de Malte in Rue Cardinale. Check out the Conservatorium of Music in the Mazarin area as they often have wonderful and reasonably priced concerts/recitals. Take a walking tour of the town (in french or english) which can be organised through the office of tourism. Take a stroll down Cours Mirabeau and soak up the atmosphere in one of the many wonderful cafes. Not far out of town you will find vineyards, hiking spots and it’s only a half hour drive to the Mediterranean sea. Such a fabulous town with great vibe, class and style.
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Re the automatic transmission v. standard: Virtually all rental cars in France are standard transmission. I rented a car from Avis before I left the US. Picked it up in Marseille where I got no hassles, no attempts to upgrade. It was a very pleasant experience. The price was extremely reasonable as well. Neither I nor anyone in my family works for Avis 🙂
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