rencontre

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                                     In the town of Violès (Vaucluse)  


rencontre (rahn kontr) noun, feminine

    : encounter, meeting (of persons); duel, skirmish
.
A Day in a French Life… by Kristin Espinasse

(Note: The following post was written in 2009)

Jules made it from Mexico to Marseilles yesterday! On the way out of the airport terminal, Mom and I stopped along the tree-lined sidewalk to gather handfuls of grapefruit-size cones that the parasol pines had dropped onto the parking lot. Like that, our treasure hunt has begun and I'm excited thinking about where the next eight weeks will take us, as Mom and I help each other to see France through one another's eyes.

Speaking about seeing France, here is a letter that Jules wrote just hours before she left Mexico. I hope you'll enjoy it as much as I have.

A note about grammar and syntax (whatever that last one means): Mom is pouting in the corner as I prepare to post her unedited letter (I threw my hands up in the air, in despair, after the third run-on sentence, at which point I quit fixing things). Mom's just nervous about grammar, and thinks she's going to sound really dumb compared to some of the blog commenters (she cites "Newforest" and "Intuit" among others). Because Mom was thrown out of school at 16, she has a huge inferiority complex over her composition skills (having daydreamed through every English class). That said, I did reserve the right to edit out just one word (I replaced "interrupter" with "interpreter". I still don't know whether that was a Freudian slip on the part of Mom, but I don't like being referred to as an interrupter! Read on, in Mom's letter.

My Dearest Marie-Francoise,

  
I have waited since last week for the translation of your beautiful story. What a delightful surprise for me this morning. How generous of you to let us into a moment of your life in your beautiful village.  I wonder if everyone knows how famous your village is, perhaps Kristi can post a link.  Your wine is world famous! Whenever someone asks me where I am going to be in France I always say "Have you ever heard of "Chateauneuf-de-Pape? I'll be almost next door in a little village about 15 minutes north." 

I'll never forget the first time I visited your lovely home and vineyard, and your amazing wine cellar located in another area of the village.  Wine barrels of old wood the size of little French Citroen.  A treasured memory forever.

  
IMG_1648 I actually had a beautiful rencontre with a little old woman as Kristi and I were climbing up the ancient pathway to your house two years ago.  The first thing I noticed as we came around the corner were her bright red geraniums, then, as my eyes settled on what clippings I could swipe, my eye was drawn to her black and white checked tile floor with the little curtain of beads blocking my way.

IMG_1645 A few "Coo-coo's, are you there Darling?" and I had my new friend pulled from her morning chores in the back of her house, out in the courtyard explaining to my interpreter (Kristi) what treasures her garden held.  Kristi, do you think you could find that photo of us when she gifted me with the antique pot and plant that now resides in your office. Didn't we name that darling little plant "Rachel"?

 
My goodness am I off-track on today's subject, sitting here typing when I should be packing.  My little helper "Adela" has been ironing all of my little Mexican poncho's and now she is threatening me with the vacuum noise to get off this computer. Back to today's topic, "Little old ladies in the morning – preparing their entrances for another day in Provence Paradise."
 
I can remember when I spent almost a month in Marseilles with my husband John and my Mom Audrey, preparing for Kristi and Jean-Marc's wedding.  Jean-Marc found us a little guest house close to Vieux Port.  Each morning I would step out of the bedroom through a french door onto a lovely patio even larger than our bedroom.  This patio hovered over the street on the side of Marseilles beautiful hills.  John had arranged all of my paints and easel, along with a comfortable chair.  As I sipped my early morning "Pastis" (those days are long gone), I became fascinated with the different styles each woman demonstrated as she prepared her front entrance for the day.  The lady I was most drawn to was always dressed to the nines (heels too!) but her demeanor shouted drill Sargent attacking, attacking, attacking the steps with her broom and then scrubbing like the plague had passed her door the night before.  I continued to sip my pastis and watch the village unfold.

A few mornings later I abandoned my work and joined the fray to become one of the people in my painting.  My Mother thought I was nuts talking to everyone, continually telling me to 'settle down". My John just smiled and winked.  Throughout this visit I managed to meet most of the people on MY STREET, and even drift down to the docks and meet all of the fishermen. The woman who has remained forever in my memories was a little old lady directly across from my "studio" who encouraged me to become her assistant as we went from station to station each morning feeding the wild cats of the hills above our street.  After our work we would return to her little ground floor studio apartment, me to lie on her bed in the kitchen while she prepared me one of her many little treats each day as my reward for packing the water and food up the hills.  After my rest I moved onto the next neighbor, securing her German Shepard, so I could pretend I was a French lady walking my dog around the secret side streets of this vivid and famous city.  I will never forget the surprise in my little lady's voice when I called her 6 months later from Arizona.  She recognized my voice and I chatted on in English, she in French, as our tears of joy in real friendship trailed down our cheeks. 
COMO TALLY CHATS??? One of my first French phrases….
 
I was invited into many of the homes of Marseilles over the next month, sampling in love and friendship, experiencing the true hospitality of the French. I will always treasure these memories, especially walking Kristi down the isle in my black tuxedo.
 
Of course my Darling Jean-Marc found out that his future mother-in-law wasn't ready for the rock'in chair as I entered his life full blast.  Poor Jean-Marc had no idea what a woman (who had been divorced for 25 years–independent to the hilt) from the wild, wild west was like. As I have mentioned before, Jean-Marc and I have crossed over many torrential rivers together, I'm sure I was not what he had in mind, but I now occupy a giant part of his heart – a woman he lovingly started calling MOM about 5 years ago.
 
Time to finish packing – I'll see you all soon in our beautiful FRANCE. 
 
VIVA LA FRANCE!
 
XOXO
 

JULES

*     *     *

If you enjoyed Mom's letter, you might leave her a note in the comments box. Mille mercis!

 
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In the French town of Violès… photo © Kristin Espinasse

Audio File: Download Rencontre * Download Rencontre-mp 3 
Toute culture naît du mélange, de la rencontre, des chocs. A l'inverse, c'est de l'isolement que meurent les civilisations. All cultures are born out of mingling, meetings and clashes. Conversely, civilizations die from isolation. –Octavio Paz

Mille mercis to Divya, Jacqui, Ally, and Leslie (and anyone I might have missed) for translating Marie-Françoise's story. You'll find their versions (in American and English) in the "routine" and "anodin" comments boxes!


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63 thoughts on “rencontre

  1. Jules,
    I have decided that you would be a fabulous friend. I love your sense of adventure! I read all of Kristin’s postings and really enjoy her and her wonderful family. Have a wonderful time on your visit, I look forward to the next adventure.
    Jane

  2. Dear Jules,
    Your beautiful daughter Kristin has made a pathway for so many of us all around the world to share your lives and in a small way be part of them. Here in Australia I do enjoy reading about her life and through her – yours as well. It is in no small way that these posts have brought me closer to France – a country I adore and will be returning to for Easter. My belle-mere is from Provence, though she moved to England many years ago and it was there that I met her son. I wish I’d been like Kristin and continued my French speaking – I have to learn it all again. I wish I was more like you – prepared to communicate no matter what. Keep it up and have a wonderful time in France.

  3. What does it mean “to subscribe to RSS feed”? I click on it and see it but do not get how one subscribes?

  4. Dear Jules,
    Loved your story. All the descriptions made me feel I was right there. Maybe someday! I know you will have so much fun with Kristin and her family. Explore, Explore, Explore, and post so I can live vicariously through you. I would love to see some painting too!!
    Have Fun!!!

  5. Sorry to ask a boring grammar question but I’m wondering why mille mercis is not spelt milles mercis?

  6. Jules, how amazing, marvelous that all these little black things on a white background can move us so. Merci to you and Kristin for affecting our lives; all over the world, with words that touch and inspire us in so many ways. I want to be like you when I grow “old”! You are the embodiment of Carpe Diem, to-be-sure!
    Never mind the grammar, the sentences above illustrate my ignorance of la grammaire, mais l’orthographe… c’est ma marotte. So, for the typos: Dual should be Duel, Eclectic, only one C!

  7. Jules – I am closer in age to you than I am to Kristin – Your wonderful breezy way is so far out of my realm of experience that I can only imagine what a day with you might be like. I wonder how a day like that would change me? I could use a good dollop of your “air” – that much I know.

  8. Bonjour, I’m a ‘neighbor’ of yours, having landed a year ago in the French Alps to marry my fiance (the wedding is April!). Thanks for being an inspiration to me – I started a video blog of my French adventures after seeing your blog and buying your book about your life experiences living in France. The photo is French in many ways but the one that stands out are the lace curtains. I just redecorated our French house and am ashamed to say I replaced all our French lace curtains because they reminded me of my grandma’s house! I need to adjust more to France’s aesthetics, I guess. Cynthia

  9. HI Jules loved your letter I spent time in the mountains of southern France and loved all of it I think you should ldo more of the letters it is charming and something many of us can identify with . You make the adventure come to life KEEP UP THE WRITING

  10. I loved every word–and the pictures they painted in my mind. Can’t wait to hear of your adventures over the next two months.

  11. Jules, Jule. My heart sings when I read your post to Kristin or any of your post. I eargerly look for them. What a joy it must be for you to have this richness in your life!
    Merci
    Mary

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